Here are our top tips to increase eyelash extension retention for your clients.
1. Cleanse properly
It may go without saying, but cleansing lashes properly before beginning a fill or full set is crucial. Using an oil free cleanser is non-negotiable. Always remember you must rinse after cleansing, leaving a soapy residue will become a barrier between the adhesive and lash, causing poor retention.
2. Take it to the next step with the prep
The cleansing shouldn’t stop with a foam cleanser. Enhance retention with a primer or protein remover. After applying the eye pads simply spritz a mascara wand with primer, comb through your client’s lashes, and dry with a fan. As a reminder, lashes should be 100% dry before proceeding with the lash extension application.
3. Isolate, isolate, isolate
Taking the time to isolate is one of the most important steps you can do during a service to maintain lash health and also boost retention. Holding the isolation until the adhesive is set is important so lashes don't stick together.
4. Proper placement
As a rule of thumb, the extension should be placed 1mm from the base of the natural lash. If you go beyond the 1mm mark, as the lash grows out, it may weigh down the natural lash which can cause stress or pre-mature shedding.
5. Educating Your Client
The service does not end after you place the lash extension onto the lash. Part of the service (especially for newbies) is to educate your client on how to maintain their lash extensions at home. Even if you think they know, make sure you discuss how to wash lashes, things to avoid such as showers/steam in first 24 hours, oils near eyes, and mascara. If your client feels comfortable with the aftercare, they will return with intact lashes. By educating your client, you are building trust and loyalty.
6. Check your temperature and humidity
Do you know the temperature and humidity in your room? Do you know the recommended range for your adhesive? Temperature plays a huge role in how effective your adhesive performs. For instance, our adhesives are flexible in that if you’re a newer artist, you can drop your temperature to slow the set time. If you’re an advanced artist, you can increase the temperature in the room to make the set time quicker. Every adhesive is different, you should know the guidelines for proper curing.
7. Create Your Own Fans
If you’re an advanced artist practicing volume eyelashes, it is tempting to use pre-made fans. While pre-made fans decrease your application time, the bond is actually weaker. When you make your own fans, the base of the fan is able to sit snug and hug the natural lash which creates a longer-lasting bond. It is also less weight which is healthier for the lash!
If you want to give the curing process a head start, you can lightly mist your clients at the end of the service. Cyanoacrylate cures by pulling moisture from the environment. Adhesive cures from the outside in, misting enables us to cure the outer layer which also cuts back on sensitivities.
9. Get to know your client
Is your client naturally oily? If so, suggest an eye primer or blotting papers to help control oils. This suggestion would be very beneficial in extending the life of the bond. Is your client a side or face sleeper? Encourage the use of an eye mask, silk pillowcase, or a side sleeping pillow to protect the lashes.
10. Chasing time
Make sure your adhesive isn’t working faster than you. Some adhesives have a very fast set time. From the second we dip the extension in adhesive, the curing process has begun. Although the extension will stick to the natural lash, it will likely shed prematurely because there wasn’t a true bond. Start with a slower curing adhesive and adjust as you build your speed.
If your client notices excessive shedding have them look at the extension to see if their natural lash is attached. If the natural lash is intact with the extension this is likely the natural shedding process. If the natural lash is not attached somehow the bond has been compromised by either our timing/temperature being off or by client aftercare - oils, excessive sweating, swimming, makeup, etc...
Always make sure you dispense a new drop of adhesive every 15-20 minutes. Do not use expired adhesive!